Abi Cleeve is the MD of Ultrasun UK and the founder of SkinSense. The first Ultrasun formulation was developed and launched in 1992 by Tazio Tettamanti. Five years later, Abi came across the brand while on holiday with her family. She loved the product so much that she contacted the company directly and met with Tazio to learn more about his story and motivation for launching the brand.
Earlier this month, CEW caught up with Abi to talk about her career journey and the key lessons she has learned along the way.
You introduced Ultrasun to the UK market at a time when sun protection was underrepresented, what drew you to this space, and what challenges did you face in reshaping consumer understanding around SPF?
It was 1997 and no-one wanted to talk UVA and UVB protection (except me of course!) I had always struggled with my skin in the sunshine and when I first found Ultrasun, I wanted to scream it from the rooftops. Unfortunately, it was only available in two pharmacies in Zurich – so I had my work cut out. I was enjoying a fast-track career at M&S but having spoken to the formulator of Ultrasun, I felt so passionate that I threw in the day job and started Ultrasun UK, just me, a phone and The Yellow pages. I called every pharmacy from Aberystwyth to Aberdeen to try and explain the importance of protection. One by one, I converted pharmacists, new mums, clinics, people with darker skin tones, people who loved their tan, people who hated sun cream, outdoor workers and anyone who would listen!!! Ultrasun was born! There was a huge education piece to be done. No one had heard of UVA and the damage this can do to the skin. In fact, it wasn’t even a regulatory obligation to include UVA protection in suncream back then!
With SkinSense, you moved into active skincare, focusing on long-lasting results. What inspired this shift, and how do you balance scientific innovation with brand storytelling?
Ultrasun utilises “Lamellar” technology, where the product is taken far deeper into the skin system and is able to be retained by the skin far longer. This is how Ultrasun lasts so long, even in water or after perspiring. It suddenly occurred to me that my moisturiser just wasn’t keeping my skin hydrated under my make-up for the whole day and it was literally a lightbulb moment. I actually asked myself, “Why or why don’t these skincare companies use a lamellar formulation?” and then it hit me that I should set about seeing if this was possible!
The innovation in our industry is fast-paced and very exciting. The manufacturers of ingredients and pioneers in how we treat raw ingredients, such as retinol or vitamin C, are phenomenal. I am so happy to be in an industry that is constantly evolving. I always put our customers at the heart of everything we do. What re their needs? Expectations? Even their budget and how can I develop, formulate and educate for them. The story telling is the easy part as this is my story – I am just me. Making products and thinking of my mum (83) my daughter (23) or my best friend (53). If I hold them in mind I can translate the science, the innovation and make it real for all of us in our everyday life.
Education has always been a pillar in how you approach beauty. How has that philosophy shaped your brand strategy and consumer engagement over the years?
I want to amaze my customers every time they use my brands. That means above all I have to listen. I am quite a humble little bean so telling the truth and making it simple but not patronising is what I am all about. I may spend many hours in a lab, but my customers are out there, working hard, commuting, running households, managing careers, looking after children, balancing bills and often caring for others. They need honest support, understanding and friendship in a jar! I hope that I tell it like it is but with some excitement and support and maybe just maybe, 2 minutes to themselves at one end of the day!
Outside of your brands, what personal or professional milestone has shaped you the most as a founder and how has it influenced the way you build or lead teams?
My daughter was seriously ill for some years in her teenage years. This was truly terrifying, humbling and awe-inspiring as I watched her strength in recovery. I will never take anything for granted and am so incredibly grateful to so many for so much. This has really helped me (I hope) become a more rounded human with real understanding for my team’s (and my customer’s) journey. We never know what people are coping with day in, day out. I have been so very supported by my team (many of whom have been with me for fifteen years or more) so I enjoy our family-type approach at work. It allows us all to be our authentic selves. It means there have been tears of joy and exhaustion at work, times of shared sadness and celebration. They see me make-up less, have seen me cry and fall apart and they have put me back together again. We are a true team and I am very proud of that.
As skin health becomes an increasingly global conversation, what emerging technologies or consumer trends are you most excited about, and how might they influence your next moves?
I am thrilled to see young people embrace sun protection. Whatever brand is right for them, it is a delight to know that Gen Z and even our beautiful baby Alphas actually think “Of course I protect my skin” rather than generations before who might only protect on holiday. At last, we might get to turn the skin cancer stats around, which is my genuine life ambition. I also enjoy that we are putting SPF into more skincare and make-up products which keeps the conversation going and the focus on how important this is. We just need to ensure that this is understood to be extra help and not relied on in all day sun exposure.
I am also excited to see cultures change and new people into the industry be welcomed and supported. One day when I am even greyer and older, I would hope to have more time to support this end of the beauty workforce as they enter the business and those taking their first steps to be the innovators of the future.
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