Ruth de Leo is the co-founder of DCYPHER Beauty, a brand doing away with shade ranges altogether in favour of AI-formulated, made-for-you foundation. We sat down with Ruth to talk about the moment she decided to build something of her own, how DCYPHER’s technology actually works, and why she believes personalisation – not inclusivity – is the future of the industry.
CEW: You’ve moved through senior roles at some of the industry’s most iconic houses before co-founding DCYPHER Beauty. Looking back, what was the turning point that made you think: “now is the time to build something of my own”?
I’ve been incredibly lucky throughout my career. I’ve worked with brilliant people, iconic leaders, amazing brands and learned something from every single one of them. Every business had its own magic, whether that was incredible innovation, exceptional marketing or an obsessive focus on the customer.
There wasn’t one dramatic “I’m quitting tomorrow” moment. It was more that I kept seeing the same problem over and over again. And the problem was frustrating as the industry and world was evolving but, the problem wasn’t being solved. Beauty was talking more inclusive, which was fantastic, but we were still asking customers to compromise. Even with 50 or 60 shades, people were still expected to find the ‘closest’ match. I remember thinking after meeting my co-founder… surely us with technology can do better than this? That question became DCYPHER Beauty.
I also knew I wasn’t starting from scratch and that gave me a sense of security. I’d spent years building relationships with incredible people across the industry. Some have joined us, others have become mentors, investors, cheerleaders or trusted sounding boards. Building a business is never a solo journey, and I’ve been very fortunate to be building an amazing community around me.
CEW: DCYPHER doesn’t just extend a shade range, it eliminates the concept of shades entirely. Can you explain how the technology actually works, and why that’s such a fundamental shift from how the industry has always thought about foundation?
For decades the industry has focused on building bigger shade ranges. We asked a slightly different question… “What if you didn’t need a shade range at all?” We have a two-pronged approach to our technology: the Shade Match tech and the product-making tech. So our scan analyses each customer’s complexion using our Shade Match, alongside a few simple questions about their preferences, like whether they prefer a radiant or matte finish. We then formulate a foundation specifically for that individual.
Not pull it off a shelf.
Not choose the closest bottle.
Actually make it for them.
No waste.
No closest match.
That’s the difference.
I genuinely believe the next evolution is removing the need for ‘boxes’ or ‘ranges’ altogether. For me, the future of beauty isn’t just inclusivity. It’s individuality. Beauty should adapt to the person, not the other way around!
CEW: Foundation is one of the most personal purchases in beauty. How did you build consumer trust in an AI-driven process, and what surprised you most about how customers responded?
Foundation is probably one of the most emotional beauty purchases you’ll ever make. When someone finally finds “their” foundation, they rarely want to let it go. Our retention numbers speak to that in abundance.
People often ask whether AI makes customers nervous. My answer is always the same… People don’t care whether it’s AI or magic if the foundation is perfect!
Of course, the technology matters. It’s incredibly clever, and Adam, my co-founder, has built something remarkable. But customers aren’t buying AI. They’re buying confidence. They’re buying the feeling of finally finding a foundation that’s made for them.
We’ve also always been clear that DCYPHER Beauty is powered by technology but built by people. Whether it’s Sue looking after our customers, Natasha leading product development, or Alona creating content because she genuinely loves the products herself, there are brilliant humans behind every part of the brand. The biggest surprise has been just how quickly people trust it once they experience it. We see it all the time at The Beauty Concierge. Someone comes over feeling curious, we shade match them, they leave with a sample… and a few days later they’re back buying the full-size bottle. Seeing really is believing.
CEW: The Beauty Concierge is a concept you’ve developed to bring DCYPHER’s AI-powered shade matching on the road, while also giving a platform to a curated group of fellow indie founder-led brands across multiple locations. As an indie founder yourself, what made you want to create that kind of collective space, and what is it about this moment in beauty that makes indie brands so compelling to consumers right now?
This is honestly one of my favourite parts of what I do. Building a business can sometimes feel quite lonely, especially in the early days. If DCYPHER Beauty can help create opportunities for other founders that they simply wouldn’t have had on their own, whether that’s being in John Lewis, meeting customers face-to-face or getting in front of buyers, then that’s something I’m incredibly proud of. I’m also a huge believer that nobody can tell your story better than you can. That’s why I love having founders in store. Their passion is infectious, customers feel it and the conversations become so much more authentic.
Consumers today are incredibly smart. They want to know who’s behind a brand. Why it exists. What makes it different. They don’t just buy products anymore.
They buy stories.
They buy values.
They buy people.
Founder-led brands have a wonderful ability to build those connections, and I think that’s why independent beauty is having such an exciting moment.
CEW: DCYPHER’s made-to-order model means no shade ranges sitting unsold, no dead stock, no waste going to landfill. Was solving beauty’s waste problem always part of the vision?
I’ve seen first-hand throughout my career just how difficult forecasting can be. Every beauty brand wants to serve every customer, but traditional manufacturing means trying to predict demand months in advance. Sometimes you get it right… and sometimes warehouses end up full of products nobody wanted. That never sat comfortably with me.
At DCYPHER, every foundation is made for a real person. There’s no guessing. No overproduction. No shelves full of shades waiting to be sold. It’s a much smarter way of operating.
Reducing waste wasn’t the only reason we started DCYPHER, but it has always been an important part of our thinking. If we can create products that are better for customers, better for retailers and better for the planet, why wouldn’t we? I actually think this is one of the biggest opportunities for beauty over the next decade.
CEW: AI and technology are reshaping beauty faster than ever, and DCYPHER has been building at that frontier from day one. Where do you see the biggest opportunities ahead for tech-powered beauty, and what’s next for DCYPHER?
I genuinely believe we’re only scratching the surface. Foundation was the obvious place to start because finding your perfect match has always been one of beauty’s biggest frustrations.
But once you start thinking through the lens of personalisation, you realise almost everything could become individual. Why should we all be buying exactly the same products when our skin, preferences and needs are completely different?
I don’t think personalisation is a trend. I think it’s where the entire industry is heading. Here we’re building for that future. Not just creating products, but rethinking how beauty works altogether.
And yes… we have some very exciting launches coming later this year. I wish I could tell you more, but where’s the fun in that? You’ll just have to watch this space.
Read more about DCYPHER here
